We have before us a translation of the book by the English climber Matt Dickinson about the assault on Everest from the north. The author of the book is not a professional. He went to the mountains at the suggestion of one of the television companies to make a film about climbing the highest point on Earth and planned to climb to the maximum height that would be accessible to him, as an inexperienced high-altitude climber. Filming at high altitude had to be done by other cameramen. However, the current circumstances unexpectedly provided an opportunity for the author of the book to become one of the conquerors of Everest.